Crochet Hotpot Kitchen Caddy Mushroom Pattern

Crochet this adorable Mushroom Hotpot Kitchen Caddy, sturdy, heat-smart, and irresistibly cute, perfect for catching lids, taming utensils, and elevating everyday cooking with cottagecore charm.

Whimsical charm meets everyday utility in the Charming Crochet Hotpot Kitchen Caddy Mushroom Pattern. This playful, heat-smart caddy cradles steaming lids, corrals utensils, and adds cottagecore cheer to your stovetop. The pattern includes clear row-by-row instructions, helpful photos, and finishing tips, making it beginner-friendly yet satisfying for seasoned makers.

Save

Work it in sturdy cotton for kitchen safety and easy washing, then customize cap colors to match your décor or gifting plans. Cute on the counter, handy at the table, this mushroom turns messy moments into tidy, photo-worthy pauses.

Holds hot pot lids and ladles between stirs
Organizes spatulas, tongs, and whisks on the counter
Doubles as a spoon rest or serving caddy

Charming Crochet Hotpot Kitchen Caddy Mushroom Pattern
To begin, meet the Charming Crochet Hotpot Kitchen Caddy Mushroom Pattern, a cute yet practical project that turns simple stitches into a sturdy countertop caddy. Moreover, it cradles hot-pot lids, organizes utensils, and adds cottagecore charm to your kitchen. Because the construction relies on rounds, single crochets, and easy shaping, beginners can finish it confidently.

Materials

Yarn (choose one):
- 4‑ply combed cotton (single strand for all parts).
- Handcrafted No. 2 yarn (use double strands for small accessories like corn, enoki, and towels).
Crochet hooks: Use the size recommended on your yarn or kit page (keep one smaller hook handy for tight joining).
Acrylic board base (round, pre-drilled). Remove protective film first.
Stitch markers (1–2) for round tracking.
Tapestry/embroidery needles.
Hot melt glue gun and sticks.
Polyfill stuffing.
Scissors and small clips.
Optional blush for cheeks.
Tail lengths for neat finishing:
- 5 cm for quick color-changes.
- 15–20 cm for sewing and closing shapes.
- 30–50 cm embroidery strands for details (corn ridges, mushroom dots, duck eyes).

Note: For best results, keep the loop height level with the acrylic edge on the foundation round; consequently, the walls will stay even.

Level of Difficulty

Overall: Easy to Easy-Intermediate (ideal for beginners ready to learn).
You will practice: working in the round, FLO/BLO, invisible decreases, clean color changes, simple embroidery, and assembly.

Special Features

Notably, a double-layer body gives the caddy structure and durability.
Additionally, the acrylic base creates a clean circle and solid foundation.
Furthermore, X-stitch single crochets add firmness to the walls.
Finally, a playful “broth and toppings” set (cat, mushrooms, enoki, corn, duck, towels) completes the look.

Step-by-Step: Pot Body (Outer + Inner + Handles)
Times are beginner-friendly estimates; however, your pace may vary.

Start at the Acrylic Base (Estimated time: 5–10 minutes)
First, peel the protective film from both sides of the acrylic base. Next, join yarn through any hole and pull the loop even with the edge. Then, place a marker in the first stitch. Finally, begin each round with a starting chain and close with a snug slip stitch to maintain shape.
Round 1 Foundation (Estimated time: 15–25 minutes)
For 4‑ply cotton: work sc3‑in‑1 in each hole (24 groups). Alternatively, for Handcrafted No. 2: work sc2‑in‑1 in each hole (36 groups). Consequently, you’ll establish a dense, even edge. After joining, tighten the slip stitch so the circle stays flat.
Build the Outer Layer Rounds (Estimated time: 45–60 minutes for R2–R4)
Next, work R2 in FLO as follows: (11X, V) × 6. Then, crochet R3 even for 78 single crochets. After that, shape R4 with (6X, V, 6X) × 6. As you progress through R5–R8, follow the charted repeats; at the final stitch of R8, stop before the last pull-through, and therefore pull the new color to complete a smooth color change.
Color Work and Shaping (Estimated time: 45–60 minutes for R9–R15)
Meanwhile, continue R9–R14 in your chosen color(s), keeping the right side facing out. Then, in R15, use invisible decreases: work groups of 8X, sc2tog (front loops only for the decrease). Consequently, the wall will taper neatly without obvious bumps.
Final Outer Rounds in BLO (Estimated time: 15–20 minutes for R16–R17)
Subsequently, crochet R16–R17 even in BLO; keep the total at 102 stitches per round. Afterward, fasten off with a 15 cm tail and weave with the fabric’s direction so seams remain subtle.
Start the Inner Layer from the Outer BLO of Round 1 (Estimated time: 30–45 minutes)
Now, turn the pot so the wrong side faces you and locate the unused back loops from the first round near the base. Then, join yarn to the back loop immediately left of the slip-stitch column. Next, work a full round of single crochet into those back loops for 72 stitches. After that, continue R2–R11 as charted to build the inner liner; finally, fasten off and weave in ends.
Join Inner and Outer Layers (Estimated time: 15–20 minutes)
Once both layers reach the same height, align their last rounds with right sides out. Then, insert the hook through the first stitch of the outer and the first stitch of the inner together, treating them as one. Next, work 102 single crochets around through both layers. Instead of a slip stitch, leave a 20 cm tail; with a needle, pass through the first stitch of the round and then through the back loop of the last stitch. As a result, you’ll get a nearly invisible join. Weave in and gently shape.
Crochet and attach the Handles (make 2) (Estimated time: 15–20 minutes each)
To create each handle, chain 13. Then, starting in the second chain from the hook: 2 sc; sc3‑in‑1; 6 sc; sc3‑in‑1; 2 sc. Finally, leave a 20 cm tail to sew each handle to Round 15 of the outer layer, spacing them evenly for balance.

Hotpot “Broth” Insert (Outer + Inner) (Estimated time: 30–40 minutes)
Separately, begin with a magic ring. First, crochet R1 outer with 7 single crochets into MR and slip stitch to close. Next, work both the outer and inner circles as charted. Then, embroider two curved lines on the outer piece (use two 50 cm strands). Afterward, hot-glue the circles wrong sides together. Consequently, the insert will stay flat and removable. If the fit is too snug or loose, simply adjust the tension and remake this part quickly.

Toppings and Accessories (Cute, Quick, and Optional)

Cat (head, face, ears, arms, feet) (Estimated time: 2–2.5 hours total)
First, build the head in a magic ring, and stuff after R14. Then, close by threading through the front loops of the final round. Next, embroider the face: place three French knots for the nose, add eyes and whiskers, and, if desired, dust blush lightly. After that, shape ears with a short chain and small sc/dc triangle; sew between Rounds 3–6 of the head. Finally, make simple arm tubes and small feet, stuffing lightly before attaching.
Mushrooms (3 pieces) (Estimated time: 25–35 minutes total)
Begin in the MR, add a pinch of stuffing, and close. Then, embroider cross stitches on the caps; consequently, the texture pops on camera.
Enoki (3 pieces) (Estimated time: 20–30 minutes total)
Start with MR 6, chain 9, and slip stitch back along the back bumps (8 sl sts). Next, tie tails inside the MR and secure; as a result, the strands hang straight.
Corn (Estimated time: 25–35 minutes)
Work in rounds; at the end of R3, change color on the last pull-through. Then, in R4, place dc3-bobble clusters separated by chains; slip stitch between clusters. Consequently, the kernels read clearly.
Duck + Towels (Estimated time: 45–60 minutes)
For the duck, shape a small stuffed body in MR; then sew the mouth between R3–R4 and embroider eyes. For towels, chain 9 for the large version and work 8 rows of sc, turning with ch‑1. Finally, add a single-crochet border with sc3‑in‑1 at each corner; make a smaller towel with fewer chains.

Assembly (Estimated time: 20–30 minutes)
Once all parts are ready, arrange the “broth” insert inside the caddy. Next, position the cat near the outer edge, place the duck front-left, and center the feet facing forward. Then, tuck mushrooms and enoki around, set the corn toward the front, and perch the small towel on the cat’s head. Finally, place the large towel on the pot’s rim. Use tiny dots of hot glue and, importantly, work in sections; therefore, glue won’t seep through stitches.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

First, do not skip the starting chain or the closing slip stitch; otherwise, stitch counts drift.
Second, watch for FLO/BLO instructions; these rounds define crisp shaping lines.
Third, avoid color-changing mid-stitch; instead, complete the last pull-through with the new color for a clean transition.
Additionally, don’t over-tighten slip stitches on chain details (especially enoki), or strands will curl.
Finally, resist heavy gluing; small dots pressed gently are enough.

Variations and Sizing Tips

Alternatively, use 4‑ply cotton for crisp definition or Handcrafted No. 2 for a softer, plush look (double strands on tiny pieces).
For color play, try a neutral pot, earthy mushroom caps, and a bright duck and towels; consequently, the scene feels balanced.
To size up slightly, go up one hook size or add one more even increase round before working even; conversely, to size down, drop a hook size or remove an increase round early.
For a minimalist version, make only the pot and the removable broth insert; as a result, you’ll get a sleek, everyday utensil caddy.

Tutor Suggestions for Beginners

Above all, mark the first stitch of every round.
In addition, keep the loop height level with the acrylic edge in Round 1 to prevent wavy walls.
Whenever possible, weave ends as you go; consequently, finishing is faster and cleaner.
Before stuffing, fluff polyfill between your fingers; therefore, shapes look smooth rather than lumpy.
If invisible decreases feel tricky, practice on a small swatch first; then apply them to the pot for neater shaping.

Finishing Tips

To finish rounds invisibly, use the needle-assisted “back loop last stitch” join; therefore, seams nearly disappear.
When gluing, center pieces first, then secure edges; as a result, placements stay symmetrical.
Finally, the massage shapes gently after assembly to settle stuffing and even out curves.